Car seat for a child - safety is paramount

Manufacturing of a printed circuit board, soldering of radioelements

If everything is purchased and prepared, we can roll up our sleeves and start from a bunch of different things to create a booster. First, I had to decide how I would make the board itself. I settled on the "laser-ironing method" (LUT), which is widely and in detail described in many different sources on the net. So, the first step was to get a pattern of tracks on the PCB. To begin with, I drew how the radio components will be located, when viewed from above.

Next, this is how the printed circuit board will look like from the side of the tracks.

For LUT in some simple program, create a mirror image of the tracks. I use sprint-layout 4.0 - this program is quite simple - in half an hour the most noob can draw tracks. The only difficulty is the dimensions, for the sake of simplicity, I personally added a new mesh with a side of 1 mm in the program. So, we draw a mirror image of the tracks, making gaps in them, equal in size to the size of the radio component, which must be installed in a specific place. It is imperative to print all the arts on a laser printer. Next, we cut out a blank from the PCB, slightly larger in dimensions than our board is supposed to. I got a 42X45mm board. We process the blank with zero, then wash it with soap and a cloth, then wipe it with a degreaser. As a result, we get something like this:

Then we follow the points of LUT, apply the printed drawing to the PCB, smooth it with an iron from the heart, then lower it into plain warm water and tear off the soaked paper. At the moment when I was creating my scheme at hand, unfortunately, there was no laser printer and nowhere to print, so I somehow, using electrical tape and a waterproof marker, applied the pattern to the textolite.

Then I diluted the ferric chloride solution. We don't need much - by eye, for the water to turn brown. Personally, I diluted it in water with a temperature of about 50 degrees. We mix and drop the board there. After a few hours, the board is ready, we clean it from the marker and everything else with ordinary solvent or alcohol.

As you can see, there are errors in the board, places where protection was insufficient and ferric chloride leaked through it a little. We will fix this by tinning. Tinning consists in the fact that taking quite a bit of solder on the tip of the soldering iron, we just drive it along the board

ATTENTION!!! You need to take very little solder so that it does not freeze with drops on the board - this will look unpresentable and may complicate the subsequent installation of radio components. The solder will only fall on the tracks, the places between them, where ferric chloride etched copper, will remain intact, you need to be careful in places where the distance between the tracks is small

A better result can be obtained by pre-covering the board with flux (I used phosphoric acid as a flux). There are a lot of fluxes, but each serves a specific purpose. Phosphoric acid is good because it is used for soldering on oxidized copper (in fact, this is the material of our tracks) and for stainless steel (we will encounter soldering on stainless steel later, when connecting a mono-input and output to the board). Also at this stage I made holes for the subsequent installation of the elements.

The next stage is the installation of radioelements. I started with resistors, then capacitors, transistor and contacts followed. Pay close attention to the exact locations of the parts on the board. I signed for myself the destination of the elements, the polarity for C1 and C6, as well as the places of the emitter, collector and base of the transistor. Total we get:

Now let's get down to our exits. To begin with, I cleaned with a file with a file contacts 1-which connects to the circuit and 2-which will go to the ground of the circuit (in a guitar, this contact goes to the body.

After covering the contacts with flux-acid, we tinker them.

Then I tinned the ends of the wires and soldered them to the pins.

We solder the input and output to our board through wires and get the finished device.

Done.

Advice for the future

In order to always know and control the level of charge of the car battery in the future, to avoid the situations described above, buy yourself (about 300 rubles) such a voltmeter in the cigarette lighter:

It can display battery voltage, interior temperature and current draw via USB. The indication is displayed on the LED display alternately with an interval of 10 seconds.

Read more: Ground clearance Renault Logan 2008

Yes - yes, they still have a couple of standard USB connectors, which in the car will not be superfluous at all. So this device is a must have for motorists!

Discuss the article DIY BOOSTER FOR CAR BATTERIES

Have a good time of the year! Are there still those who have not despaired of waiting for new posts?

Boredom is a multifaceted thing. Sometimes it's too lazy to do something, but sometimes it's too lazy to write about it. Today, it’s generally too lazy to do nothing, so I took it and made a booster from improvised means. There were not very bad components at hand, I want to tell you:

Battery - two sections of Toyota Prius high-voltage battery; Wires - BMW, 6mm square; Solder - POS-61; Insulation - cardboard, black noname electrical tape, cycle designe bicycle tube; Banjad - reinforced noname cattle, corrugation 6mm toyota; A string from some kind of camera to fix all this in the transport position.

To this I had to buy only 100A noname crocodiles at 80r per pair.

Each battery section contains 6 NiMh cells (1.2V per cell nominal) connected in series. The nominal capacity is 6.5A * h, the maximum discharge current in the car is limited to 130A (when accelerating to the floor). In my case, it is not artificially limited by anything and, unfortunately, is not protected by anything. There are only vents for emergency gas discharge. I soldered the wires to the crocodiles and to the copper plates (jumpers on which the battery is assembled in the car). I attached the wires to the battery, additionally protected them with a corrugation. Since there are no fuses, and the battery is very powerful, the crocodiles are completely covered with a bicycle camera, the probability of shorting something is minimal. I wound the battery sections together with reinforced tape, insulated the terminals with them, having previously shifted them with cardboard. To prevent the wires from dangling in the transport position, I wrapped it all with a cord from the camera.

The problem of poor engine starting is familiar to many of our compatriots, especially those who regularly operate their car in winter, during frost periods, encounter it. If the engine refuses to start, there are several ways to solve the problem, but one of the most effective options is to use a starting device (PU). How to make a starter device for a car with your own hands and what its principle of operation is, we will describe below.

Do-it-yourself flushing of the gas boiler heat exchanger

Regular inspection and maintenance of gas equipment will significantly extend its service life, reduce energy consumption, reduce the cost of replacing individual elements and assemblies, reduce the frequency of repairs, and prevent excessive emissions of carbon monoxide into the atmosphere.

One of the most critical stages in ensuring the smooth operation of equipment is flushing the heat exchangers of gas boilers.

Why is it worth flushing the heat exchanger of a gas boiler?

• It is this part of the gas equipment that is most susceptible to destructive factors.
• Impurities contained in the water circulating through the heat exchanger, in particular magnesium and calcium salts, accumulate over time on the walls of the heat exchanger, gradually forming a rather thick layer of deposits.
• If it is untimely to take care of their removal, the tubes of the heat exchanger may become clogged, which will initially lead to a loss of work efficiency, a decrease in water permeability and, as a result, to the failure of the gas boiler.
• formation of microcracks on the inner surface of the tubes.
• danger of breakage or accident.

In addition, deposits on the heat exchanger tubes lead to a gradual increase in gas consumption by 15%, which entails significant financial costs.

Do-it-yourself flushing of the gas boiler heat exchanger

Maintenance of gas equipment should be carried out in compliance with the necessary safety measures and in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer.

The boiler documentation must indicate the preferred or only possible method for cleaning the heat exchanger.

It is understood that cleaning can be carried out with a complete disassembly of the system and gaining access to the treated surface, or without removing the heat exchanger from the gas boiler and running the reagent through the heat exchange system.

The first stage, from which the self-rinsing of the gas boiler heat exchanger begins, is the removal of mechanical impurities from its surface.

This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or a soft brush, very carefully so as not to damage the thin plates covering the heat exchanger tubes.

1. Pouring liquid into the booster (This is a special system for cleaning the boiler, the simplest and most effective way to rid the system of dirt, it can be purchased in specialized stores)
2. Connecting the booster to the heating system,
3. Open the booster box and don't forget to plug it in,
4. The cleaning process begins and the liquid is pumped into the system,
5. Until the dirt comes out, don't stop cleansing,
6. After cleaning, disconnect the booster from the system and let the water flow unauthorized,
7. The final stage will be flushing the entire system with plain water.

The most important rule that must be followed for safe work when repairing any equipment is to completely disconnect it from all sources of energy, gas and water before inspection and disassembly.

You also need to be extremely careful to dismantle the heat exchanger so as not to damage the sealing elements of the boiler, the violation of which will lead to leakage and damage to the equipment.

You also need to be extremely careful to dismantle the heat exchanger so as not to damage the sealing elements of the boiler, the violation of which will lead to leakage and damage to the equipment. Flushing the gas boiler heat exchanger itself does not require special skills, adherence to the rules and caution is what will come in handy

Flushing the gas boiler heat exchanger itself does not require special skills, adherence to the rules and caution is what will come in handy

Description of the starting device

What is such an engine starting system, how does the module work and what is its purpose? Let's take a quick look at these issues.

Purpose and functions

The purpose of the car charger is to provide a better engine start. Such a need may arise in different cases, but as practice shows, usually our compatriots face such a problem precisely in frosts. In addition, most modern charging modules also allow charging mobile gadgets - tablets, smartphones and other devices. For this, they even have additional ports.

Starter Feeder 900

Device and principle of operation

There are several types of charging modules:

1. Pulse blocks, the basis of the principle of operation of which is a pulse voltage conversion. In such a module, the voltage first increases under the influence of the current frequency, after which it decreases and is converted. Such devices are usually characterized by low power and, as a rule, are used to recharge a discharged battery. But if the battery charge is very low, while it's freezing outside, then in this case, recharging the battery can take quite a long time. The main advantages of such blocks are low price, low weight, and compact size. As for the disadvantages, this is the low power of the module, as well as the complexity of its repair, especially, as practice shows, they can often fail due to unstable voltage.
2. Transformer blocks - in this case, the main element of the device is a transformer used to convert current into voltage. Such charging modules allow you to increase the charge of any battery, regardless of its discharge, even if it is almost full. In addition, devices of this type are immune to voltage surges and can function in any state. The main advantages are the power of the modules and their reliability, as well as simplicity in terms of operation. As for the disadvantages, it is high cost, large size and weight.
3. Boosters are another type of block. A booster is a portable battery that functions on the principle of a portable unit - first the booster charges the battery, and then the power unit is started from the battery. Boosters can be household or professional, they differ in volume and size. In household boosters, the capacity is quite low, but it is usually enough to start one engine. Professional devices are full-fledged chargers that can start several cars, and the on-board network in such cars can be either 12-volt or 24 V. The advantage of boosters lies in their compactness and autonomy, however, due to their size, they can only be installed on flat surface.
4. Capacitor modules. In this case, the procedure for starting the motor is carried out according to a rather complex principle, the circuit of such devices is based on powerful capacitor devices. First of all, they are charged, after which the capacitors transfer the charge to start the motor. Capacitors charge quite quickly and they also quickly release their charge to start the internal combustion engine. As a result of the high cost of such modules, they are not so popular. Moreover, in practice, their frequent use can lead to accelerated wear and tear of the battery (the author of the video is the carpow carpow channel).

Heat exchanger chemical flushing

Performing a chemical flush on your own, when using special flushing fluids for heat exchangers, cannot be called a simple event.

For such work, you need a device - a booster. This method is simplified and therefore it is necessary to know the features of its implementation. It is easier to carry out as there is no need to disassemble the boiler and remove the heat exchanger from the unit.

It is necessary to disconnect two nozzles, connect a hose to one of them, pouring the agent for flushing the heat exchangers inside the device. The composition should come out from the opposite branch pipe, to which a hose is also connected. As a result, the reagent will move in a circle inside the booster and heat exchanger.

Heat exchanger flushing apparatus - booster consists of the following elements:

• reagent reservoir;
• circulation pump;
• electric heating element. It is not available in all devices, but experts recommend using just such boosters. Thanks to this element, the reagent for flushing heat exchangers heats up and more effectively destroys various types of deposits, both sludge and salt.

Chemical wash solutions are readily available commercially. When choosing a reagent, one should take into account the degree of contamination, the types of deposits formed and the material of manufacture of the heat exchanger.

Usually consumers use solutions based on acids - hydrochloric or sulfuric, less often - nitric or phosphoric. These formulations manage to remove dense and thick deposits. This is especially true for the layers formed by ferric salts.

When the contamination is insignificant and the frequency of washing the heat exchangers is observed, it will be sufficient to use formulations based on adipic or sulfamic acids. Not only liquid solutions are commercially available, but also gels diluted with water.

Device device

The main working element of the booster is a relatively new lithium-iron-phosphate battery. Such batteries are renowned for their ability to deliver high current while having low capacity.

The booster contains the following elements:

1. Lithium-ferrum battery.
2. Microprocessor module.
3. Converter for converting 12 volts to 5.
4. Protective relay.
5. 4 LED flashlight.

The booster connectors are connected to special wires equipped with powerful crocodile clips. Crocodiles are made of reliable tight springs and wires. In order to create a larger contact area, the teeth of the booster crocodiles are connected with special metal bridges.

To prevent loosening and disruption of the booster contacts at the wire connections, their braid is crimped with high quality. Wires with a cross section of at least 8.5 mm 2 are capable of transmitting an electric current of almost 60 amperes for a long time. For a short time, they can withstand a current strength many times higher than this value.

The booster design includes special USB connectors (hidden under elastic rubber caps) in the amount of 2 pieces. You can connect tablets, mobile phones, smartphones here for charging. Thanks to the high current of almost 2.4 amperes, the charging of gadgets is very fast.

Nearby there is a booster connector for starting the engine. It has a small size - micro USB, but it performs its main task, to connect the device instead of a standard rechargeable battery, very efficiently.

The flashlight built into the booster should not be more demanding. As in all ordinary flashlights, its function is to illuminate the surrounding space. In addition, it has two modes: constant light and blinking.

Types of restraints

Types of restraints
The child restraint is purchased for the child according to his age, height and weight. On this basis, car seats are divided into several groups:

• Group 0 - a car seat in the form of a cradle for children from birth to six months. Installed sideways in the direction of travel. The child's weight is up to 9 kilograms.
• Group 0+ is usually a portable car seat. They can often be seen in the hands of young mothers - equipped with a special carrying handle, they are very convenient for transporting a child in a store or clinic. Suitable for children up to a year, weighing up to 13 kilograms. The child rides backwards in it.
• Group 0 + / 1. Sufficiently economical car seat. From birth to two or three years old. The maximum weight of a child is 18 kilograms. A prerequisite is that the chair must be able to be installed against the direction of travel. In children under one year old, the neck muscles are still very weak, it is difficult for them to maintain the weight of a rather large head. Therefore, the chair for their transportation must be installed with the back forward, otherwise fatal injuries (up to latent decapitation) are possible in case of an accident.
• Group 1 - for children 1-4 years old, 9-18 kg. The car seat is installed in the direction of travel.

• Group 1/2/3 - a car seat that holds the child with regular seat belts.The adjustable headrest and armrests allow you to change the configuration to adapt the device to the child's height. For children 1-12 years old.
• Group 2/3. For children 3 - 12 years old, weighing 15 - 36 kg. The chair is placed in the direction of travel. Boosters can also be referred to this group.

Booster - child restraint, seat with seat belt grooves. Some parents, instead of a booster, use various self-made pads:

• seats from chairs,
• ottomans,
• pillows.

This is wrong, because only a special child restraint guides the seat belt correctly and protects against chest injuries during hard braking.

Popular chair models

The buyer is now offered many different car seats, from very expensive to the most budgetary.

Popular chair models

It would seem that here is a chair - one for 10 thousand, the second for one and a half. Why overpay? It is not that simple. The primary way to evaluate a restraint is through crash tests. The higher the score, the better the car seat. Our Mishutkas and Pandas are cheap, but these chairs have not passed any tests. They only help to fix the child and prevent him from falling off the seat in the event of a collision. Foreign counterparts in this regard are much more reliable.

Firms currently have the best crash test indicators:

• Romer,
• Recaro,
• Britax,
• Cybex,
• Maxi-Cosi,
• Konkord,
• Kiddy.

Britax-Romer First Klass plus. Group chair 0 + / 1. A special soft pad for babies allows the youngest passengers to travel in comfort. The chair is installed for babies against the direction of travel, upon reaching the age of one year and weighing more than 9 kg - in the direction of travel. Has two tilt positions - upright and reclining. The seat is equipped with reliable seat belts, side impact protection. Safety standard ECE R44 / 04. This car seat is a great option for those who do not need a carrycot.

Maxi Cosi Cabrio Fix. Car seat 0+, for children up to 12-15 months. Safety standard ECE R 44/04. A very comfortable and lightweight portable car seat weighing only 3.5 kilograms has three-point seat belts, a removable headrest, increased sides. The sun visor can be extended if necessary and the baby will be protected from rain or sunlight. The comfortable handle will allow the mother to carry the sleeping child without any problems without taking it out of the chair. This chair is a great solution for mobile mothers.

Terms of use

Modern boosters do not need extension cords and are able to help start the engine in any conditions. The main requirement is a sufficient amount of charge in the device. It takes approximately 20 minutes to recharge the booster from a household electrical outlet.

If the booster is connected in parallel to a standard battery, part of the charge is spent on rebuilding the battery. It is recommended to take this into account before using the device. After starting the engine with a booster, the capacity of the device needs to be restored. For this, the device is subsequently connected to on-board electricity.

Mechanical flushing of the gas boiler heat exchanger

To flush the gas boiler by mechanical flushing, it is necessary to disassemble the entire heating system to disconnect the contaminated part. This requires manual and automated devices, you can also use special installations for mechanical washing. Disassembly of the system is necessary to provide direct access to the surface to be cleaned.

The easiest way for mechanical cleaning after disassembling the system is to remove plaque from the inner surface using a special scraper or brush. If the parts are very dirty, they can be put in an acid wash for a while, which will help remove the finest and thinnest deposits.

Boiler connection diagram in order to reduce the intensity of pollution.

Mechanical cleaning is a rather costly method, since it is associated with disassembling the system, but, on the other hand, thanks to flushing, it is possible to exclude the replacement of equipment and its overhaul in the event of a high percentage of plaque and scale. It is necessary to observe safety precautions when flushing the heat exchanger with your own hands.

For example, before turning on a gas boiler, flushing it with a chemical reagent, it is necessary to pass clean water through it several times in order to remove all acidic residue, otherwise it can destroy the heat exchanger and the entire system as a whole will need to be repaired. Hydrodynamic flushing of gas boilers is also used. According to this technique, mechanical removal of plaque and scale is carried out by the action of high pressure water jets. This is one of the most effective flushing methods, since when using it there is no danger of damaging the system, and plaque is removed from all types and types of gas boilers.

In order to flush the gas boiler, it is necessary to completely turn off the heating system. To simplify the procedure, you need to install special shut-off valves during the installation of the heating system. To do this, you can use valves or taps on the return or supply pipelines. Hoses from the flushing device will be connected to them. If there is no possibility of connecting the hoses, work should be done to organize the flushing units. This work may incur additional costs.

Practical application of the booster

The first signs that the boiler heat exchanger needs to be flushed are clicking, energy waste, low water temperature. Heating systems can have pressure drops. All these signs indicate that a lot of salts and scale were deposited on the walls, which led to a decrease in the nominal bore and heat transfer.

Heat exchanger before and after cleaning.

If you are using a factory booster with heating elements, then you need:

• cut off the boiler from the circuit and drain the water from it;
• screw the hoses from the booster onto the heater;
• pour acid and turn on the unit.

If you made a booster with your own hands, then most likely there is no heating element in it. In this case, you can speed up the flushing process by turning on the boiler by a third of its capacity. With the expectation that the acid will heat up 45-50 degrees. Only first you need to fill the heat exchanger with an active substance so that it does not burn out, and only then start the heater.

For the system to be reliable, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of the pipes for heating. The conditional passage and walls matter.

Features of the selection of pipes for air heating are described here.

If you plan to flush the entire circuit, then the supply and output of the reagent can be organized through the heating radiators. At the end of modern batteries there are plugs that can be unscrewed and installed in their place with squeegees. During cleaning, the acid foams a lot, so a special substance is added to it, which smooths this process.

Cleaning chemicals

They are used to maximize the effect of flushing heat exchangers and heating systems with copper pipes. The chemicals are also suitable for steel products. With installations for washing heat exchangers, red liquids are used, which, reacting with contaminants, change their color. The amount of the product is adjusted depending on the amount of dirt. Along with special fluids, hydrochloric or orthophosphoric acid is also used. These substances will help to flush the pipe-in-pipe heat exchanger or any other as efficiently and quickly as possible.

For high-quality cleaning, 10 to 30 percent of the chemicals are pumped into the system. The use of aggressive substances allows not only cleaning various elements of the system, but also protects against corrosion, water foaming, and increases the service life of the boiler.

Boiler cleaning methods

Exists two ways flushing the boiler from scale and dirt:

• Collapsible Is a method that requires disassembly of the unit. When using it, the contaminated parts of the boiler are dismantled. Then these components are either placed in a container with a reagent for a few hours and cleaned mechanically, or a different cleaning method is used. It all depends on the degree of pollution. Then the elements are put back in place.
• Indiscriminate - cleaning is carried out without dismantling the parts, directly on site. This procedure is best done with a booster.

CIP flushing is carried out as follows:

1. the boiler is disconnected from the fuel supply;
2. cools down;
3. water is drained;
4. the device is disconnected from the heating system;
5. a booster is connected;
6. the pumping of the liquid reagent begins (2-6 hours);
7. at the end of this process, the cleaning liquid is drained;
8. the boiler is flushed with water;
9. dried;
10. reconnects to the heating system.

For the best result, the procedure repeat several times.

Dismantling and cleaning parts

When choosing a collapsible method in order to to prepare gas boiler for cleaning, it should be disassembled:

1. shut off the gas supply;
2. disconnect the wires from the gas valve;
3. unscrew and remove the boiler door;
4. disconnect the wire leading to the piezoelectric element;
5. detach the thermocouple and nozzles (be sure to mark the immersion depth of the nozzles into the burner);

1. disconnect the fuel supply pipe;
2. take out the burner, unscrew the nuts and remove the top cover.

Key points cleaning parts:

• Igniter. In order to clean it, you need to turn off the gas, remove the igniter, clean it with a metal brush, make a purge, and reinstall the igniter.
• Burner and nozzles. To clean them, it is necessary to shut off the gas supply, remove the burner from its place, mark the location of the nozzles, then carefully unscrew and clean the nozzles with a brush, and the burner with a brush. After that it is desirable blow out the burner hole using pumping equipment, which is at hand, then the nozzle should be inserted back, focusing on the mark, after which the burner is installed in its place.
• Heat exchanger requires cleaning both inside and out. Water circulates inside, and the main blockages are located there. Outside heat exchanger contaminated with soot, which negatively affects his work. You can clean the device from soot mechanically; a scraper, a metal brush, and brushes are suitable for this.

You need to choose the right booster

Before you buy a starting device, you need to study what voltage your battery gives out.

Most often it is 12 volts, but if you need a booster to start the engine of a truck, please note that in many tractors the battery outputs a voltage of 24 volts. Accordingly, the device needs another one, capable of delivering amplified current.

The parameter that is most significant is the starting current. Each battery has its own indicator, you need to study the model you have installed. Usually, the necessary data is applied to the body of the device, so there is nothing difficult to find out the indicators. In addition, the starting current may differ depending on the conditions in which the vehicle is used. For example, if it's freezing outside, the current power often drops, since low temperatures negatively affect the performance of the power unit.

After that, they begin to select a starting device of the required volume. It depends not only on how much capacity you need to charge the battery, but also on how often you plan to use the booster.If you need it for a car, it will be more convenient to use a compact portable model that is easy to take with you. However, the charge in it will not be very large. For an SUV or a tractor unit, it is recommended to use a more powerful device, which may come in handy several times in a row. If you do not have a goal of saving, you need to buy the most powerful car booster to start the engine.

Why is cleaning necessary

Sometimes there are certain problems in the operation of the heating system and in order to get rid of them, it is enough just to clean the equipment.

This is due to the fact that during the long-term operation of the boiler, various substances and deposits are collected in the heat exchanger, which can lead to the complete destruction of this part of the equipment.

In addition, under the influence of high temperatures, the impurities deposited on the heat exchanger react with each other, which in turn will lead to a decrease in the operational properties of the entire heating system as a whole.

So, they can interfere with high-quality heat exchange:

• hardness salts;
• dissolved iron.

Hardness salts and excess iron are characteristic of water in many regions of our country, so the problem is urgent for many!

In order for your boiler to operate at the maximum level of efficiency, and the heat exchanger to maintain its operability as long as possible, it is recommended to periodically clean the equipment using special fluids and solutions for this, which we will discuss in more detail below.

The frequency of cleaning directly depends on what kind of liquid you use in the heating system:

• if this is ordinary, clean water, then this procedure must be performed every four years;
• if it is antifreeze, then the cleaning procedure is performed every two years.

When using antifreeze, it is extremely important to replace it on time. If this is not done, then the entire heating system of the house can be seriously damaged.

Of course, ideally, this should be done by specialists, but the cost of their servants is unreasonably high. Therefore, if desired, with a little skill, you can achieve an acceptable result with your own hands.

Booster preparation and pumping features

It should be noted right away that the biggest problem in this situation is the booster, that is, a special device that provides fluid pumping through the heat exchanger and at the same time removes the fumes.

It is unlikely that he will be able to take it from someone from his acquaintances. And it makes no sense to buy it yourself - its cost exceeds $ 300 (and these are not the highest quality and reliable devices). It is clear that the acquisition is unjustified. Therefore, the only correct option is to make a booster from scrap materials with your own hands.

An example of how to clean the heat exchanger of a gas boiler in the video:

For these purposes, an old, but working pump of a washing machine may be suitable. If you don't have one, then you can easily buy it at a flea market or on the Internet for a small amount.

Connection features

It would seem that there is nothing complicated in further actions, but in fact, not everything is so simple, since it is important to correctly connect the flushing pipes coming from the pump.

For this, a special mounting plate must be made. Carefully study the features of your equipment and based on this:

• take two metal solid plates, the thickness of which is 2.5 millimeters;
• depending on the features of the device, drill holes to match the holes in the heat exchanger;
• at a regular plumbing store, buy four so-called "American" women with a diameter of half an inch and some spacers under them;
• use only the inner part of the "American", installing them in the lower hole of each plate;
• using bolts, fasten the plates so that the fittings are pressed as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger.

Even conventional ¾ ”brass fittings will do to allow the hoses to be connected. They can be used for both primary and secondary heat exchangers. By the way, how to properly connect a booster for flushing heat exchangers with your own hands, see the video presented in this article.

The preparation does not end there. You will now need additional container. It can be a regular plastic canister or even a five or six liter water bottle. Be sure to rinse the container well to remove even the slightest contamination.

At the bottom, install a fitting that will allow you to connect the hose. The fitting must be secured tightly and firmly. Perhaps you need to melt the hole for it a little, install a fitting, and when the plastic starts to solidify, it will wrap it tightly and ensure tightness.

If there is a desire and opportunity, install a tap at the outlet, but this is not necessary.

Flushing agent

The next step is to select a flushing agent. There are a great many such solutions, and on specialized forums, each specialist advises the tool that he used himself. Honestly, you should not believe unconditionally such statements, there is a very high probability that the liquid is actually not ideal.

Signs of contamination

When does the heat exchanger need to be flushed? This can be determined by the following features. Thus, the fuel consumption for the boiler increases significantly. The boiler often stops, heat transfer drops, the batteries do not warm up enough. Also, the need for flushing is indicated by the rapid clogging of the filters.

If you regularly perform flushing using installations for flushing heat exchangers, then pipelines and other elements of the system get rid of blockages, as well as disturbances in the circulation of the coolant.

The use of such equipment makes it possible to prevent accidents, failure of radiators, the need for overhaul or complete replacement, and an increase in energy costs.

In boiler equipment, the heat exchanger is a critical and critical unit. It is on him that the efficiency of heating the premises depends, as well as the correct course of technological processes. You should not refuse flushing, especially if experienced specialists announced its need after diagnostics. Cleaning with a heat exchanger flushing unit using hydrochemical technology is much cheaper than a major overhaul or complete replacement of heating equipment.

When does a gas boiler need to be flushed?

To understand if the gas boiler needs cleaning, it is important pay attention to the following points:

• increase in time to heat the room (at the same air temperature outside the window);
• difficult work circulation pump;
• drop in pressure water in the tap - if a double-circuit boiler is used;
• uneven heating batteries, pipes and other heating elements;
• overheat heat exchanger - occurs when the return water is difficult to return;
• crackle, micro-explosions and other sounds that shouldn't be.

Attention! In a country house or cottage, a gas boiler works around the clock during the entire winter period. This means that flushing should be done annually at the end of each heating season.

With your own hands - Homemade minibuster - With your own hands - reports

Sometimes you have to flush the heat exchangers of boilers and columns. For this, there are professional boosters for 10-40 liters or more. But for this I use a weak pump from the aquarium filter compressor. Power is 4 watts. Weak. But then the drainage pump from the washing machine ariston, power of 25 watts, came to hand.The masters rejected this pump and installed a new one, but the old one works! But the trick is that this pump is removed from the washer body and only the engine with the impeller remains. So the task was to weld the pump casing, connect the pump to the tank and get a booster for flushing the heat exchangers.
This is what we get using standard parts from plumbing siphons.

Main part - part of the siphon with a teat for bath overflow. To fix the case, I use the cut part from the bathroom overflow cover. Inside the pump I insert a scrap from a plastic bottle ... the neck is cut off ... goes to the suction. The brown thing inside is visible ... There is a rubber ring on the housing with the impeller, but I will not attach the pump housing to this ring, but to another place using a homemade rubber gasket.

I tried to download it - it works!

Therefore, I began to make a protective case for the engine. I take a metal jar from nuts. And I start to customize.

Next, I make a reinforcement from millimeter galvanized, otherwise the plastic bends under interference.

Putting it all together and I get just such a thing - a pump for a booster.

It remains to pick up a canister or other container and attach the pump to the side of the container. Plus, bring out the network cord. I plan to use a regular 4 liter oil or antifreeze canister. To be continued.

krainamaystriv.com

How to make a booster with your own hands

In order to make a booster for flushing heat exchangers with your own hands, you will need:

• reagent reservoir - a plastic canister for at least 10 liters, more is possible;
• ½ or ¾ inch flexible hoses;
• water pump.

You need to make a booster based on the type of pump. It can be a submersible pump or a free-standing pump. If the pump is submersible, then no additional holes in the tank are needed. A hose is connected to the pump and screwed onto the heat exchanger. The second hose (return) will lead the acid directly back to the tank. In this case, even an ordinary bucket can be used as a reservoir for the reagent. It is important that the pump is suitable for handling acids.

It is more convenient to use external pumps, by the way, even a conventional electric circulation pump for heating is suitable. To connect it at the bottom of the tank, you need to insert a metal squeegee and tighten it with nuts to the walls of the tank. Everything must be sealed. Next, a coarse filter is screwed onto the squeegee - you must not allow debris to get into the pump, and it will be better for flushing. A pump is wound behind the filter, from which a hose goes to the heat exchanger. The circulation hose goes straight into the plastic canister.

The average service life of heating pipes in an apartment is at least 25 years, but even half a century is not the limit.

Here we talked about what pipes to make heating in a private house with autonomous heating.

The disadvantage of a self-made booster for flushing heat exchangers is the absence of a heating heating element. Descaling with a cold reagent will take longer, but you can save on energy costs.

Flushing shell and tube heat exchangers

Flushing of shell-and-tube heat exchangers is carried out, as a rule, by hydroabrasive and hydrodynamic methods, since today they are considered the most effective. In case of particularly difficult pollution, they are combined with hydrochemical washing, which is used for the initial softening of lime deposits and only after that water and non-rigid abrasive materials are connected.

1. The method of hydroabrasive cleaning of heat exchangers is most effective for very dense, already cemented dirt. High pressure flushing fluid, combined with abrasives, is ideal for cleaning shell and tube heat exchangers.
2. When the limescale deposits are not too dense, it is advisable to use the hydrodynamic flushing option, for which industrial devices are used that operate at a pressure of no more than 1600 bar.
3. The hydrochemical method involves the use of a special fluid with the addition of corrosion inhibitors for flushing heat exchangers - it can be quite effective in some cases. But in some places of the shell-and-tube element, foci of corrosion processes sometimes occur.

Video about the need to flush the heat exchanger of a gas boiler:

Flushing technology

There are several methods of cleaning work, which are conventionally divided into:

Collapsible technology is necessary in case of severe contamination or when it is necessary to replace any components of the system. When performing work, the heat exchanger must be disassembled, and then each component is subjected to mechanical, hydrodynamic or chemical washing.

Since collapsible cleaning requires certain resources, a method is most often used that does not require the mandatory dismantling of the system. This is a chemical wash technology. If carried out regularly, it will help preserve the properties and characteristics of the device for the entire period of operation.

Mechanical cleaning of the heat exchanger

As an element of a gas boiler, the heat exchanger takes up a large amount of space inside the unit. It is located above the combustion chamber, and it is not easy to get close to it.

Before the gas boiler heat exchanger is flushed, this element is removed:

• first remove the outer part of the case. Before this, disconnect the gas supply and the electrical power, if present in the device;
• the heat exchanger is disconnected from the pipes of the heating structure;
• remove the fasteners of this element.

Inside the pipes, when the heat exchanger has not yet been rinsed from scale, you can see that its cavities are clogged with deposits. Most of them consist of salts of various metals, usually sodium and calcium. Cleaning is carried out using metal tools such as pins, scrapers, etc. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the wall of the heat exchanger.

The device is soaked in a container, it is possible in a bath, and a weak solution of acid, for example, hydrochloric acid, is poured into it. After the deposits have softened, they are removed. At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to rinse the internal cavities with water under low pressure. To do this, you can use a hose connected to the water supply by attaching it to the pipe.

Then you should wait until clean water flows. For greater effect, they use a mallet, tapping it on the heat exchanger during the flushing process.