Heating a greenhouse with wood: implementation methods, advantages and disadvantages

Heating in a greenhouse: choosing an economical system

Ecology of consumption. Homestead: Heating a greenhouse in winter is probably the biggest expense. Consider how to organize heating the greenhouse in winter, if possible without investing large funds.
Without a doubt, a greenhouse on a personal plot is a necessary structure.

This building, indispensable for the gardener, acquires even greater value when the possibility of heating it is provided.

Growing early vegetables, greens, strawberries and seedlings, and with year-round use of a heated greenhouse - and obtaining such products in winter - isn't this an obvious benefit?

Especially for those who earn in this way: vitamins in winter and early spring are not cheap and the demand for them is great.

The ability to harvest 2-3 crops makes this business even more profitable.

The cultivation of tropical and ornamental plants has now become a fashionable hobby. And it is possible to provide them with the appropriate climatic conditions throughout the year only in a greenhouse or winter garden, where there is heating.

How to build a greenhouse with heating? or make heating in an existing one?

How to make heating in a greenhouse?

There are many ways to heat a greenhouse with your own hands. For these purposes, different schemes are used:

• stove heating greenhouse
• greenhouse gas heating
• electric heating of the greenhouse
• steam heating in the greenhouse
• hot water

For example, when laying the foundation of the greenhouse, you can fix the electrical circuit in it using heating cables for underfloor heating. This option practically does not take up the space of this building, while ensuring good heating of both air and soil.

But the use of electric heaters is not a very convenient solution.

The fact is that in the absence of normal air circulation, the area of ​​the greenhouse will warm up unevenly, that is, if one part of the space turns out to be excessively overheated, then the heat will not reach the other at all.

You can normalize the movement of the air flow by installing a fan. However, the very process of its operation also leads to air cooling. There is one more negative point here - electricity costs will increase significantly.

To make the heating of the greenhouse with your own hands rational, to create comfortable conditions for the growth of plants, especially if you are heating the greenhouse in winter, you should choose a type of it that will provide full heating of the soil and air.

Greenhouse natural heating options

These options for providing buildings with heat can be called the most economical and simple. However, to obtain the best effect from the use of biological "fuel" and solar energy, experienced gardeners give several practical advice.

1. The height of the greenhouse should not be large, and when choosing a shape, preference should be given to arched structures.
2. When placing a greenhouse, it is recommended to choose a place protected from drafts, as well as create additional protection from the wind.
3. If solar heating is planned, the location of the greenhouse should be unshaded.

Greenhouse heating with solar energy

Of course, this method is acceptable only for those regions where there is no severe frost, and the average annual number of sunny days is of high importance.

It must also be remembered that the building envelope must be not only light-transmitting, but also heat-retaining (for example, polycarbonate, polymer ethylene vinyl acetate, polyvinyl chloride films). Polyethylene film (stabilized and unstabilized) is not able to retain infrared heat rays, therefore in such greenhouses strong cooling of the soil and air is noted at night, and their overheating during the day.

For the efficient and successful use of the sun's energy, a so-called heat accumulator is needed, which will not allow the soil and air to quickly cool at night and is easily made by hand. It is a two-layer structure: the lower layer is a heat-insulating material, in particular, expanded polystyrene or a PTFE film; top - waterproofing, for example, polyethylene.

Figure 1 - Using solar energy to heat the greenhouse

The battery should be laid in the ground, for which about 150 mm of fertile soil is removed, and covered with wet sand. After that, the soil is returned to its place.

There is another option for using solar heat. But for this, it is necessary to make a simple structure, including a heat exchanger, laid in a previously prepared layer of stony material, which serves as a heat accumulator, an air duct and a fan.

As you know, warm air heated by the sun accumulates in the upper part of the structure. To provide heating of the soil in the greenhouse, it is driven down through the air duct with the help of a fan. At night, the equipment should be turned off or reversed.

Figure 2 - Solar heating system for a greenhouse with a stone battery

For emergencies (unexpected frosts) it is necessary to provide additional "emergency" heating of the greenhouse. The simplest option is to cover the ground with reed mats, straw, and rags.

Greenhouse heating with biofuel

Natural waste is used as a heat source in this method:

• manure (cow, horse, pork);
• sawdust;
• rotting foliage and bark of trees;
• straw.

As you know, decaying natural materials give off a significant amount of heat. When introduced into the fertile layer, in a short time they are able to significantly increase the temperature of the soil and keep it for a long time.

Below is the efficiency of some materials suitable for heating a greenhouse.
Table 1 - Thermal efficiency of some types of biofuels

Natural source of heat	Maintained temperature, 0С	Duration of effect, days
Cow dung	12…20	up to 100
Horse dung	33…38	70…90
Pig manure	14…16	up to 70
Sawdust	up to 20	14
Overturned bark	20…25	up to 120

To obtain the greatest effect, it is recommended to use not pure materials, but their combination: manure - straw, sawdust - bark, sawdust - manure - bark.

Before laying in the ground, compost, manure or peat must be heated, for which it can be processed with quicklime, poured with hot water or kept in the sun in a loosened form. The fuel is ready to use when it starts to float.

The prepared material is laid out over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse with a layer of 300-600 mm, which depends on its size and duration of heating. From above it is necessary to fill up at least 200 mm of soil.

To maintain the required temperature of the fossil fuel in the building, it is necessary to maintain a good level of humidity and aeration.

Heating system selection

When choosing a greenhouse heating system, consider:

• building dimensions
• heating method of the residential building itself
• their financial capabilities.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

It is important that the heating system matches the type of greenhouse.

It is known that heating film greenhouses, for example, requires more heat than heating polycarbonate greenhouses - a material that is itself a worthy thermal insulator.

It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the system. For example, some of them, due to their high cost, are completely unsuitable for standard, small greenhouses. Other systems require professional installation and adjustment.

This is especially important when it comes to heating industrial greenhouses that use advanced technologies such as heat pumps, infrared heating and others.

Having made a decision about home-made heating of the greenhouse, the first step is to "feel" the whole technology of the process, to take into account all the pros and cons of the selected heating system.

It is necessary to correctly calculate the heating of the greenhouse in order to achieve the most rational distribution of heat in a given room.

Now, briefly about each heating method.

Organization of the soil heating system

To build a polycarbonate greenhouse oven with your own hands, you can use improvised materials - silicate or any other brick that can withstand such temperature loads. But, as experience shows, it is best to use metal welded structures - purchased, made by yourself or to order from a specialist.

How to save money: you can take a solid barrel made of high-quality metal as the basis for a metal furnace.

1. Choosing a place.

As mentioned earlier, it is best to place the heating element in the center of the polymer structure (or closer to the center) - this will help to minimize temperature differences near the wall. In addition, the heat from the furnace itself will heat the surrounding air and "provide" an additional source of thermal energy. But it is worth knowing that planting plants in the immediate vicinity of this element is strictly prohibited, as well as placing flammable liquids or other objects. So for storing firewood, diesel fuel or processed oil, you need to organize a separate storage place - away from the strong stove heat. For greater convenience, you can fence the oven around the perimeter (at least 30 cm) with unnecessary bricks or large stones (not boards!).

1. Chimney.

To use hot air, it is better to place the branch pipe not in a circle - near the walls of the greenhouse, but to lay it in a "snake" between the rows - 3-4 "loops" will be enough. Moreover, it is important not to forget about the horizontal chimney - it may be needed for emergency cooling of the room in case of severe overheating. In such situations, the horizontal chimney should be shut off, and the vertical chimney, on the contrary, should be opened, thus, the heated mixture of combustion products will be removed directly outside the building. Also, this method is used for forced or planned cleaning of the inside of the pipes.

Note: since the horizontal chimney should be cleaned periodically - prevention of clogging, and this is not so easy to do, small manholes should be organized around the entire perimeter of the pipes - hatches of medium diameter. But, doing such work, it is worth remembering the dangers of carbon monoxide and carefully sealing these holes.

In addition to all of the above, the chimney should be placed not on the soil surface, although this option is also acceptable, namely in a buried state - this will ensure almost complete absorption of heat by the soil, and, therefore, reduce losses to a minimum.

1. Fuel selection.

If a summer resident wants to make his stove for a polymer greenhouse more versatile, then there can be no question of choosing any particular type of fuel. For maximum cost savings, the inner part - the firebox, should be equipped in such a way that it works on both liquid and solid fuels (make a kind of vessel).This will help the owner to use pre-prepared firewood (coal), recycled engine oil, and diesel fuel.

And finally, you can notice that you should not count on any one way of heating a polycarbonate greenhouse. That is, you should protect yourself and the future harvest as much as possible - stock up on both good stove heating and a standard electric heating element (it will help with periodic cleaning and repairs of the stove).

If you plan to independently build a polycarbonate greenhouse, then in this article you will learn all the nuances of creating a high-quality structure.

To have a bountiful harvest at any time of the year, you will need a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, if you follow our advice, the construction process will not take much time.

Water heating

Installation of water heating of the greenhouse, operating both on electricity and on gas, is possible.
The heat source is hot water circulating through pipes that are laid inside the greenhouse or under the floor.

The scheme and principle of operation of water heating of a greenhouse is as follows: a coolant (heated water) circulates through pipes closed in the system, which, having given off heat to the atmosphere, enters the boiler again, where it is reheated.

A larger number of pipes allows you to lower the water heating temperature. It should be noted that the pipe system tends to heat up rather slowly.

The boiler is the main element of such heating for greenhouses. His choice is due to a specific situation.

In the area where the gas pipeline is laid, it is gas boilers that are often in demand, as the most economical option.

Despite the fact that the heating works from the mains, the following happens: the water heated in the boiler is supplied by means of a circulation pump to pipes that can be laid along the walls of the greenhouse or between plants.

When installing a water heating system, copper, steel and plastic pipes are used. The latter are just what you need in this case. They are lightweight, affordable and do not rust.

The circulation of water in the system is usually forced, which is facilitated by the installed pump, less often natural.

When connecting thermostats to pipelines and radiators, it becomes possible to maintain a certain temperature automatically.

When laying pipes for subsurface heating, it must be borne in mind that steel is not suitable for these purposes. Corrosion of the metal will destroy and disable such a heating system.

The disadvantages of water heating in a greenhouse include the complexity of the installation of the pipe system, the high price and the need for constant monitoring.

The positive side is that there is a simultaneous heating of air and soil.

The most economical greenhouse heating. Biological heating of the greenhouse with biofuel

The essence of biological heating of a greenhouse is that aerobic bacteria that decompose organic materials (manure, sawdust, garbage), when air is available, release heat in an amount sufficient for heating.

Biofuel is any organic material that can be consumed by microorganisms, releasing heat energy. The temperature of biofuels can reach + 72 ° C, therefore the process of decomposition of biofuels with the release of heat is called combustion. Hot biofuels are used in greenhouses to keep temperatures at optimal levels for plants.

Horse manure is the best biofuel for heating a greenhouse

The following are used as biofuels:

• animal manure mixed with loosening materials (straw, sawdust, horse peat, leaves), see table 2
• waste from woodworking enterprises (bark, shavings, sawdust, chips), see table 3,
• municipal waste consisting of organic waste, see Table 3.

Table 2. Characteristics of manure as biofuel for heating the greenhouse

Biofuel characteristics	Manure
Horse	Bovine	Pork	Sheep
Weight 1m3, kg	350-450	400-500	400-500	550-700
Acidity, pH	8-9	6-7	7-8	6-7
Humidity,%	65-70	75-80	65-67	73-77
Max. temperature in a stack, ° C	60-72	40-52	55-60	20-30
Interruption period, days	7-9	18-20	9-10	20-30
Average temperature, ° C	33-38	12-20	30-35	14-16
Duration of burning, days	70-90	75-100	90-120	60-70

Table 3. Characteristics of household waste as biofuel for heating the greenhouse

Biofuel characteristics	Household waste
Sawdust	Bark	Household waste	Garbage compost
Weight 1m3, kg	150-200	400-500	700-750	650-750
Acidity, pH	5-6	5-7	7-9	7-8
Humidity,%	30-40	60-75	35-60	up to 50
Max. temperature in a stack, ° C	30-40	40-50	60-65	50-60
Interruption period, days	20-25	10-15	10-12	5-7
Average temperature, ° C	15-20	20-25	36-48	30-35
Duration of burning, days	40-60	100-120	80-100	120-180

Read more about the characteristics of biofuels in the article: Manure and Straw; the greenhouse is wonderful! Biofuel for heating a greenhouse

If necessary, to protect biofuel from burning, it is stacked and tamped. In a compacted state, biofuel will not burn or will burn weakly.

To warm up the biofuel, they interrupt it and put it loosely in a stack; hot stones or burning coal are placed inside the stack. After 3-5 days, the biofuel starts to burn and can be used to heat the greenhouse.

Biofuels heat up well when nitrogenous nutrients are present. Therefore, sawdust is watered with slurry or animal urine. Mixing manure with wood waste has a good effect. The active activity of microorganisms is possible with sufficient moisture content. Therefore, biofuels are humidified as needed.

The biofuel temperature reaches a maximum one week after warming up, and then begins to drop. The release of heat lasts 2-3 months, gradually fading.

Heating the greenhouse with biological waste helps to utilize it, rationally using the energy stored in biofuel, and also improves the air-gas environment in the greenhouse by releasing a large amount of carbon dioxide, which plants need for photosynthesis.

Spent biofuel is suitable as organic fertilizer both in the greenhouse and in the open field.

Biofuel stacking. Hot biofuel is placed in the greenhouse loose, evenly distributed over the area and slightly compacted with a pitchfork. Fertile soil is poured onto biofuel with a layer of 15–18 cm for growing seedlings; if the seedlings are grown in pots, then the soil layer is reduced to 7–8 cm. When growing vegetable plants, the soil layer thickness should be increased to 20 cm.

Sowing and planting of plants begins after warming up the soil to the optimum temperature.

The disadvantage of biological heating is that it is impossible to control the thermal regime if it is necessary to raise the temperature to the required level.

Connection to an existing heating system

Before doing anything, you need to make sure that the boiler can provide the required pressure.

In addition, it makes no sense to connect to an existing system if the greenhouse is located at a distance of more than 10 m from the house.

And since the pipes laid to it must be insulated, then it will cost a lot. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that most of all heating is necessary for the greenhouse at night. Just at this time, controlled heating systems can lower the temperature. It is important to consider the priority of connecting to the greenhouse.

Infrared heating

For infrared heating of greenhouses, use:

• infrared lamps for greenhouses
• infrared heaters

If we take into account the fact that such an energy carrier as electricity is the most expensive, it becomes clear why the heating system is gaining momentum.

Air heating

It is easier to build air heating of a greenhouse with your own hands than water heating.

In this method, air is used as a heat carrier.

It is pumped between the walls of the boiler and the furnace, while heating up, and then it is distributed through the air duct system.

A polyethylene perforated sleeve is laid around the perimeter of the entire room. Warm air enters through it, which evenly heats the soil.

The advantage of this method is the rapid heating of a greenhouse of any area.

The disadvantage of this heating system is that you have to constantly monitor the humidity in the greenhouse. This heating method contributes to a sharp decrease in it.

A little about stove heating

This is also a good alternative solution. Here, the use of various energy sources can be distinguished as an advantage. Gas, coal, firewood - energy carriers can be absolutely anything.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with Bordeaux mixture for greenhouse processing

True, the walls of the furnace get very hot at the same time, so experts recommend the safest and most effective options. For example, Burelyan. Although other types of ovens are produced.

Heating with wood is still in demand, although one should not forget about the development of new technologies. In the last century, only potbelly stoves were used, but over time they were transformed. No more 24/7 monitoring as before. The equipment itself can be made in several versions.

For example, central wood-fired stoves are very common. Such heat sources are made on the basis of welded metal sheets or bricks. In such cases, a chimney must come out through the walls or roof of the greenhouse. Heating will come both from the chimney and from the oven itself.

It is best to install special fans so that the heat is distributed proportionally throughout the room. Air humidity in the room itself decreases when this type of heating is used.

The chimney is laid under the ceiling itself or along the walls. Then the health of people will be safe, you can not be afraid of burns. Warm air is evenly distributed throughout the structure, even in winter.

Some cons

An additional source of the appearance of harmful microorganisms can be firewood, which in such a situation takes up most of the space. Including in winter, because it is impossible to keep fuel in the cold season on the street.

Wood heating

When choosing a heating option for a greenhouse, taking into account what is happening with an enviable regularity in the growth of tariffs for electricity and gas, it is worth paying attention to an alternative method - heating the greenhouse with wood.

Furnaces of the Buleryan type are very suitable for this purpose. Their use allows you to organize the heating of the greenhouse in such a way that night trips for the next laying of firewood are not required. The room heats up quickly, and the temperature is maintained at a predetermined level for a long time.

One load of firewood is enough for 6-8 hours. The body of the stove does not heat up, which completely ensures safety.

You can build a stove for heating greenhouses with your own hands, as an option, a stove with a horizontal chimney.

Its structure is as follows: a brick firebox is made in the vestibule, and in the greenhouse, in its entire length, a chimney is laid under the shelves. It is through it that carbon monoxide passes and leaves the room through the pipe on the other side.

The heat generated at the same time heats our building.

Features of the oven for the greenhouse

It is not difficult to choose a stove for a greenhouse, besides there are a lot of offers on the market. But it is necessary to understand the specifics of the operation of each device, its technical characteristics, capabilities, power, installation rules and a number of other parameters. A competently executed decision will allow you to get a good harvest at any time of the year.

Continuous combustion furnace

There are several types of long-burning furnaces. Let's take a quick look at each of them.
Buleryan stove

The device is widely used, including for heating greenhouses. Externally, the device looks like a barrel with a two-tier firebox. Curved pipes are made around the perimeter. The power and quality of heating depends on the number of metal pipes.The main elements of the device are: a smoke damper, a loading shaft with a metal door, a draft control system.

It runs on wood and is relatively safe to use. The oven can function according to the following principles: heat transfer, convection, heat radiation.

The fuel gradually smolders as it enters, while generating gas, which subsequently circulates through the air nozzles. Due to this, heat transfer occurs.

Since the oven is operated with an open flame source, basic safety precautions must be followed. It is advisable to place an urn with sand and a fire extinguisher nearby.

Butakov's stove

There are no significant differences in the specifics of work from the Buleryan device. The difference lies in the shape of the unit, which resembles a parallelepiped. Inside the system, pipes are laid through which warm air passes. The stove has the following main elements: chimney, a series of dampers, an ash pan.

Furnace performance is similar to the previous type. It is not demanding, practical, allows you to easily achieve the desired result and the required air temperature.

Bubafonya stove

This is the simplest and most reliable design that will not be difficult to make on your own, which cannot be said about the devices described earlier. Furnaces for heating greenhouses of this design have an elementary body, often made from a conventional thick-walled cylindrical container or gas cylinder.

In the central part of the body, a loading opening is usually made with a corresponding door, whereby the fuel is loaded. At the bottom of the apparatus there is an ash pan for waste disposal. The release of heat occurs due to the smoldering of materials under the influence of constant pressure due to the mass of the unit itself.

Stove stove

Another name for the device is slobozhanka. It is the most optimal greenhouse heater and consists of the following elements: a combustion chamber for materials, a convection jacket, ducts for the supply and distribution of air, special components used for specific conditions.

Burning in the oven can be top, center or side. Air supply is provided to the lower or central side part or through the L-shaped branch pipe. The unit is capable of operating on wood and alternative fuels, including coal, pressed sawdust, and more.

A long-term combustion furnace will allow high-quality heating of the greenhouse with minimal human participation in this process. The stove works great on peat briquettes, brown or charcoal.

The specificity of the furnace lies in the gradual smoldering of the charged materials, as a result of which gas is released, which rises above the area where the fuel burns out. This process leads to the generation of significant heat. One batch of fuel can be enough for several hours of operation. The heat released during smoldering is several times greater than during normal combustion.

A special feature of the furnace is a portioned oxygen supply, which is provided by adjusting the corresponding mechanism. After complete combustion of the materials, the furnace branch pipe is closed, due to which air is supplied. This leads to a weakening of the combustion draft.

Advantages of a long-term combustion furnace:

1. Relative autonomy of work;
2. Significant service life;
3. Favorable heat consumption and high performance.

The process of building a long-term combustion furnace for a greenhouse is simple, for which you need metal fittings, corners or a channel, an iron barrel with a volume of 100-200 liters, and a steel pipe.
The barrel is placed horizontally, after which one of its side parts is cut off. Places where the edges are rolled must be leveled. Instead of the bottom, a pipe is installed, which in the future will be a chimney.At the other end of the container, a hole is cut for the air supply, where the channel is additionally welded.

After assembling the furnace, you can proceed to testing it. It must be loaded with 30% solid fuel, and then brought into working condition. From the start of ignition to the use of fuel, at least 5-8 hours must pass. The maximum load will allow it to work up to 3 days.

It is not recommended to use anthracite coal for the operation of the furnace. The loading of the unit must be maximized to achieve its best efficiency and performance.

Brick greenhouse stove

A practical and reliable way to heat a greenhouse is to use a wood-fired brick oven with a hog. Its main advantage is the ability to apply maximum lift and sufficient traction.
To build a furnace you will need:

• Metal pipes;
• Iron floors, which can be taken from the corresponding used unit;
• Up to 500 pieces of fireclay or ordinary building bricks.

Initially, preparatory work is being carried out to organize the foundation. Preference is given to monolithic structures made on the basis of cement mortar.
During the construction of the furnace, it is necessary to provide two steel pipes in its upper base, through which the oxygen supply will be carried out. Additionally, a water tank is installed, which serves to humidify the air. The furnace is lined with bricks over the entire surface, using cement or clay as a binder.

During the operation of the oven, it may be necessary to service the ventilation ducts, for which it is necessary to provide an inspection hole.

Heating unit made of iron barrels

The main components of the furnace are metal containers with a volume of up to 150-200 liters, steel pipes, metal strips and fittings. It is allowed to make a similar structure from one barrel, which will require more welding work.
The unit has a simple design with a cover. It is divided in the center by a steel partition. In the lower part, supports are welded to install the furnace, and a door is installed, which serves for loading fuel and unloading ash. A chimney is attached to the upper element.

The sequence of steps for assembling the oven is as follows:

1. The flange of the barrel is cut off, after which a chimney is installed on the seat.
2. A hole with a diameter of 100-120 mm is opened from below.
3. The second barrel is cut across so that one of the parts is at least 250 mm in height.
4. Places for loading fuel and installing a locking device are marked.
5. Furnace supports are made using fittings and other metal waste.
6. The firebox, chimney and the main part of the stove are welded together.
7. The cover is made from the remnants of the material.
8. After the installation of the furnace, it is checked for operability.

To load the oven with sawdust, you will need to have a special device. It is made in a conical shape with a socket diameter of 150 mm. The device is bookmarked before starting the filling of the furnace. It is not recommended to load the unit by more than a third of the total volume. At the end of the relevant work, the cone is removed, after which the fuel is ignited with the closure of the furnace lid. Usually, one such operation is sufficient to ensure the operation of the unit for 48 hours without operator intervention.
As an element of fire safety, an additional shutter filled with ordinary sand can be used. As necessary, including for stopping the furnace, material is added.

The quality of welds should be controlled at every stage of work, which will allow you to get a safe, reliable and durable product.

Oil oven

Oil ovens are widely used not only for heating greenhouses, but also for heating water and preparing food.
Before making a furnace for a greenhouse, you need to pay attention to a design that allows you to work on waste engine oil. It is especially relevant in the presence of direct supplies of such fuel, the price of which is insignificant.

The main elements of the oven are:

• Smoke evacuation system;
• Filling hole for oil;
• Regulating dampers, whereby it will be possible to set the required combustion mode of materials;
• Fuel tanks for storage and oil supply.

The chimney is often positioned vertically and is a regular steel pipe.
The device is controlled by filling in the required amount of oil, with the required flow and opening of the damper. The greatest efficiency from the use of an oil furnace is achieved when a water heating circuit is connected to it.

The principle of operation of the device is quite simple, for which it is performed:

1. Loading up to 3 liters of oil;
2. Setting the wick on fire with its subsequent installation in the corresponding hole of the furnace;
3. Partial closing of the damper with a hole of 10-20 mm;
4. Flame burning intensity regulation;
5. Exit to the operating mode for 4-6 minutes.

Combined heating method

Combined boilers are widely used. They are convenient in that they make it possible to instantly respond to changing operating conditions.

At the same time, the disadvantages of one heating method can be successfully covered by the advantages of another. For example, a power outage will not be taken by surprise if heating is provided that operates on wood, gas, or coal.

When there is a duplicate source of heat, you can safely calculate the future profit from a rich harvest.

Which method to choose for heating the greenhouse, everyone decides independently.

In order to choose the optimal heating method, which is so necessary in a suburban area, a structure, each available option should be very carefully calculated. And in the end, to understand for yourself what kind of heating is better for a greenhouse, more economical, more profitable and more convenient. published by econet.ru

P.S. And remember, just by changing your consumption - together we are changing the world! © econet

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Greenhouse heating: ways to heat the greenhouse in winter and early spring

The road is a spoon for dinner, and a green cucumber - for the new year. This addition to the Russian proverb is not controversial. No amount of conservation can replace vegetables grown in our own greenhouse.

However, just the desire to create a "vegetable island" on the site is not enough. Heating the greenhouse in winter is a major stumbling block for beginners.

Which heating method is easy to implement and not too expensive? What technical innovations do greenhouse owners use to grow seedlings, vegetables and flowers? What are their pros and cons? We will give answers to all these questions in our review.

How to heat a greenhouse in winter with your own hands. How to turn a greenhouse into a greenhouse

There are many options for forced heating of a greenhouse and turning it into a greenhouse. Let's start with the traditional, but not very common today.

biological way

the law of conservation of energy is the basis of our world. energy does not disappear anywhere and is not taken from anywhere, it only passes from one form to another. Plants, through a complex process of photosynthesis, convert solar energy into the energy of chemical bonds, synthesizing organic substances. they are used by animals and humans to maintain life and build their own bodies. and some of this energy ultimately remains in the manure.

Manure is not only a valuable fertilizer In the process of mineralization of organic substances (their decomposition to inorganic), the reverse process occurs - heat energy is released. It is large enough to be used to heat a greenhouse.Biofuel greenhouses (in Europe they were called "Russians") were widespread in the past. In the Moscow region and near St. Petersburg, in greenhouse farms heated by manure, a variety of vegetables were grown, and they came to the capital markets in early spring: radishes and fresh salads in March, carrots and radishes in April, cucumbers in May, and in June melons.

Types and methods of heating in greenhouses

All methods of heating greenhouses can be divided into auxiliary and main ones. Ancillary products include solar radiation and biofuels. Everyone knows about the energy of the sun's rays, which create a greenhouse effect. The use of biofuels should be considered in more detail.

The decomposition of organic matter is accompanied by the release of a large amount of heat. Knowing this, experienced greenhouses in the cold season lay horse, cow or pig manure under the beds. To slow down the rate of decomposition, it is mixed with straw or sawdust. Above, a homemade "bioaccumulator" is covered with fertile soil and plants are planted. A week later, the process of heat release by organic matter begins. It lasts for several months. As a result, the earth warms up evenly, and the seedlings start growing together.

Economical and environmentally friendly solar and biomass heating methods have their drawbacks. In early spring, the energy of the sun's rays is not enough to fully warm up the greenhouse. Biofuels start to "work" only when the temperature is high enough for another heat source. These reasons explain their subsidiary status.

Biological heating method

The latest developments in greenhouse heating include infrared ceiling heaters. They consume a minimum amount of electricity, plus the effect of their action is much higher than any other types of heating devices, including water radiators and even warm floors.

The heat from them does not rise up, but evenly spreads throughout the room. Moreover, it is the soil that warms up most intensively, and not the air, which is very important for plants.

It should be noted that for heating greenhouses, it is necessary to use only long-wave devices (preferably ceramic) with the heating of the working fluid up to 270-300 ° C. Unlike medium-wave emitters, which heat up to 1700-1900 ° C, they are not capable of burning plants.

Biofuels (self-heating substrate) have been used to heat plants for a long time. Any summer resident knows that cucumbers get sick less and grow better not on open ground, but on warm manure.

Can also benefit the greenhouse from biofuels. As it, you can use not only manure, but also plant residues, household organic waste (paper, rags, plant food residues), sawdust, foliage, straw. Later, when it completely decays and turns into humus, it is used as fertilizer.

To heat the greenhouse in a similar way, it is necessary to remove the top layer of the earth, lay a 15-centimeter layer of biofuel, spill it with warm water. A few days later, when the organic mass begins to release heat, it is again covered with removed soil and the beds are equipped.

When using straw, bales are placed in shallow ditches so that it is slightly raised above the ground. To start the process of decay, the substrate is spilled with water, infusion of manure or chicken droppings. Seedlings can be planted after 2-3 days when the temperature starts to rise.

A similar method can be useful in the event of recurrent frosts. It allows you to increase the room temperature by several degrees in a short period of time.

With a slight decrease in temperature just below 0 ° C, 4 candles are enough to heat a 6x3 m room.So that the heat from them does not go up immediately, they must be covered with metal buckets, leaving a small gap between it and the ground for oxygen to flow. Buckets heated with the help of a flame will begin to quickly heat the air.

You can replace metal buckets with ceramic pots inserted into one another and strung on a metal bolt. It will serve as a conductor of heat.

Heating with a candle

Ordinary water bottles can also be used to heat the greenhouse. Experienced gardeners stock up on large plastic containers and use them throughout the season. During the day, the bottles are heated in the sun, and at night, when the temperature in the greenhouse drops, they begin to release the accumulated heat into the air. Plus, in the heat, containers with cold water save plants from excessive overheating and burns.

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This is a cheap but old way. Among the shortcomings, the main one is worth noting - the solution is suitable only for small buildings. But on the other hand, even novice farmers can easily cope with biological heating.

The main thing is to prepare the manure in advance. It should be stored in a dry and cool place. Otherwise, the decay processes may begin ahead of time. Manure is collected in one heap a few days before laying. It is necessary to warm up the mixture, ordinary warm water is also suitable for this.

The material is definitely ready for practical use if it starts to float. It is necessary to prepare in advance the grooves into which the manure is poured. The process of heat release will be most intense when the layer thickness is 30 cm. After that, they move on to seedlings.

The main sources of heating for greenhouses

Efficient polycarbonate greenhouse heating can be created in several ways:

• Solid fuel stove;
• Gas boiler;
• Electric cable;
• Infrared heater;
• Heat gun;
• Heat pump;
• Solar liquid collector.

Stove heating

Heating a greenhouse with a stove is an old-fashioned way of maintaining a positive temperature. Despite its considerable age, it is still relevant. The idea of ​​the method consists in laying a long channel from a furnace buried in the ground, through which hot gases move. They warm the soil, and the red-hot stove body radiates heat into the air.

This method has several advantages:

• Low price and availability of solid fuel;
• System autonomy;
• Minimum maintenance costs.

There are also disadvantages to stove heating:

• The process does not lend itself to automation;
• The soil is warmed up in a narrow area along the smoke channel.

A modern option for heating greenhouses with solid fuel is the Canadian Buleryan stove. In its firebox, the process of burning firewood is slow. Due to this, the frequency of fuel loading is reduced (2 times a day), and the heat output becomes uniform.

Polycarbonate winter greenhouse construction

A conventional polycarbonate greenhouse consists of a foundation (monolithic strip), a supporting frame (wooden beams, plastic or metal pipes) and a covering material (polycarbonate sheets).

Although polycarbonate retains heat much better than glass and plastic wrap, a greenhouse using this covering material needs additional heating in winter. However, with appropriate insulation of the structure during the construction process, the cost of additional heating will be much less.

In order to protect the structure from cold winter winds, you must initially choose the right location for its location.The most suitable area is open to sunlight, where one side of the greenhouse is closer to some kind of structure, or the greenhouse is located between two stationary walls located at some distance from it and not blocking the sunlight.

In addition, for the construction of a winter greenhouse, polycarbonate with a thickness of at least 10 mm should be used. If thinner sheets are available, they can be stacked in two layers.

It is imperative to take care of the tightness of the joints of the structure. The gaps between the frame and the covering material, as well as between the frame and the foundation, should be protected with roofing material or waterproofing.

Did you know? The first greenhouses in the Russian Empire appeared during the reign of Tsar Peter I. He ordered to establish in St. Petersburg the so-called "Pharmaceutical garden", where numerous medicinal herbs and exotic plant species brought from distant countries grew.

Joints can also be treated with sealants, and it is better to choose those that form a plastic structure, since solid sealants can begin to crumble under the influence of sudden temperature changes.

Rubberized gaskets can be used to seal the gaps between the metal frame and the foundation.

The foundation is the basis of the entire structure and significantly affects the heat inside the greenhouse. And although some farmers place polycarbonate greenhouses directly on the ground, it is better to arrange a reliable insulated base to effectively retain heat.

The most popular greenhouse bases:

• concrete strip with foam insulation;
• bars of large section.

  

When building a concrete foundation, a gravel-sand cushion should be created in the pit, which will serve as an insulation layer. A good option would be to backfill the layers on a waterproofing film laid on the bottom and walls of the trench.

The resulting foundation is covered with roofing material, foam is laid around the perimeter from the inside and sand is filled in, which additionally protects the structure from low temperatures and moisture.

Warming of soil

The simplest and most effective method of warming the soil is raising plant beds. To do this, raise the soil and place foam or similar material under it so that the beds are about 40 cm higher. In addition to ordinary beds, greenhouse plants can be planted in boxes and placed on shelves.

To choose how to heat the greenhouse, in addition to financial possibilities, one should take into account the climatic conditions of the area, the size of the room and the type of crops grown. Cold-tolerant plants such as spinach, dill or celery require minimal heating, while thermophilic tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers require a higher temperature and constant heating of the greenhouse.

Stove

The basis of stove heating is a solid fuel stove or boiler fired with coal, wood or briquettes. Furnace combustion products, harmful to crops, are discharged through a chimney that goes outside.

• Advantages of stove heating:
• inexpensive energy materials;
• simple device and operation;
• fast heating of the room;
• the ability to make yourself.

• Disadvantages:
• the need for frequent fuel filling;
• lack of process automation;
• uneven heating of the room;
• reduction of air and soil moisture.

In the absence of a greenhouse humidification system, a wide container with water can be placed to prevent drying out of the plants.

Important! For safety reasons, it is necessary to constantly monitor the normal operation of the chimney and periodically clean its internal surfaces from solid particles that have settled from the burnt fuel.

Despite the apparent complexity, you can arrange a greenhouse heating system on your own without the help of professionals. You just need to carefully prepare and stock up on the necessary tools and materials.

The stove heating device is not particularly difficult; almost any greenhouse owner can handle it.

Necessary materials:

• solid ceramic bricks - 220 pcs.;
• fireclay bricks - 80 pcs.;
• clay masonry mortar - 80 l;
• chamotte masonry mortar - 30 l;
• foundation concrete - 0.25 m³;
• waterproofing material;
• firebox door;
• cast iron grate for the grate;
• blowing and cleaning;
• smoke damper.

  

Step-by-step instruction:

1. The foundation for the slab is being arranged: height - 20-30 cm, base size - 70 × 100 cm. For this, a trench is laid with a depth of about 45 cm.
2. Formwork is laid along the perimeter of the trench, reinforcement is installed, concrete is poured.
3. The base area is covered with a sand layer 20 cm thick.
4. To create a firebox for laying and an ash pan for waste disposal, 4 initial rows of the structure are laid out with red bricks on clay mortar.
5. A cast-iron ash-pan door is installed.
6. Rows 5–12 are laid with fireclay bricks with a fire-resistant adhesion. In the 5th row, a grate is arranged, rows 6–8 are equipped with a furnace door. Rows 9–12 form the firebox vault.
7. Rows 13–22 are laid out with refractory bricks. The arch of the firebox is overlapped by rows 13 and 14, in the 15th row a cleaning door is mounted.
8. The chimney duct is rows 17-21. The first smoke damper is arranged in row 22.
9. Rows 23–27 - continuation of the smoke channel. The narrowing of the channel begins from the 28th row, and in the 29th row another smoke damper is mounted.
10. The roof of the stove is rows 30 and 31. Starting from the next row, a pipe is arranged to exhaust the smoke. It is created with a bandage and is built with 4 bricks.

Despite its cost, hot water heating has many advantages. It is convenient in operation, allows you to easily maintain a given temperature regime and operates on any combustible material - gas, gasoline, biofuel, peat, garbage, etc., which allows you to choose the type of fuel with suitable prices.

Probably, most summer residents and farmers are faced with the need to reduce the cost of maintaining a greenhouse, because often it takes from 40 to 80% of the total costs to heat it.

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To make heating in a greenhouse economical, you should:

1. Choose the right location for the installation - open to the sun, but protected from the winds.
2. Attach the greenhouse with the north side to the house, which will reduce heat loss and facilitate the installation of all communications.
3. To get the maximum amount of winter sunlight will allow the placement of the greenhouse with its ends from east to west.
4. During construction, provide for protection against heat loss - a high-quality foundation, insulation of joints, a layer of polycarbonate of at least 10 mm.
5. Tilt the trays to the south for up to 30% more sunlight.
6. Arrange a thermos greenhouse, that is, partially submerged in the ground, which will significantly reduce heat loss.
7. Choose a heating method depending on climatic conditions, the size of the greenhouse and the type of crops.
8. If possible, use cheaper fuel resources - firewood, branches.
9. Install energy efficient infrared heating with high efficiency.

   

So, now you know that the device of an effective polycarbonate greenhouse heating system in winter will allow you to maintain a favorable microclimate and grow a rich harvest of various crops at any time of the year.

Rating of greenhouse heating options

In conclusion, we will make a comparative analysis of the considered options for heating greenhouses.

The easiest way to organize heating is with gas boilers and solid fuel stoves. Gas installations can be easily automated and, without auxiliary heat sources, create a comfortable microclimate for plants.

Buleryan stoves are not very convenient in operation (the need for periodic manual loading of firewood).Their main advantages are low fuel costs and high heat transfer.

In second place, you can put infrared emitters, cable heating systems and solar collectors. They are relatively inexpensive, easy to install and operate automatically. However, in terms of the cost of energy spent on generating a unit of heat, they are significantly inferior to gas and firewood.

Heat guns occupy the third place in our ranking. They are easy to maintain, can operate in automatic mode, but are not economical. Heat pumps are located in the same niche. Despite the minimal cost of energy, the price of these installations is high and the payback period is very long (8-12 years).

Heating options

You can find many ways to insulate the ground and warm up the air in the greenhouse - from industrial installations to self-laying foam and insulation material.

The main power supply for most heaters is:

We will analyze the most popular designs, highlight the pros and cons of each - you just have to choose the one that suits your greenhouse.

Electric heaters

Among the variety of these heaters, several groups stand out: operating on the principle of the sun (infrared emitters), heating the air (heat guns), heating the soil (heat mats).

• easy to install by yourself;
• only an outlet is needed for power supply;
• easy to remove and rearrange to another place;
• big choice.

• do not warm up the air and soil at the same time;
• you need to take care of moisture protection so as not to damage the electronics;
• a large greenhouse needs several emitters.

Tip: To get rid of moisture, you can use an exhaust fan (install it in advance).

Warm floor

It is also powered by electricity and completely covers the base of the greenhouse. You need to remove the ground, put in the insulation material and the cable, then fill the beds again - and the heating is ready.

• the soil is evenly heated - up to 40 ° С;
• soil heating is automatically regulated;
• economical - this is a simple system in which there is only cable and insulation;
• you install it yourself, even if not related to construction and design.

• it is necessary to monitor the humidity so as not to damage the cable;
• does not warm up the air.

Tip: to definitely avoid freezing the beds, raise them about 40 cm above the ground.

Water heating

It works in the same way as home heating - hot water moves through a pipe and heats the ground. You can conduct it directly from home, or install a separate boiler. Place pipes around the perimeter of the greenhouse and between the beds.

• it is quite cheap to install such heating;
• you can build this system yourself;
• heats up the soil and plant roots well.

• almost does not warm the air;
• may not cope with severe frosts.

Solar heating

Sunlight is the most natural heating for plants. Install a collector or special panels on the roof of the greenhouse to retain the meager heat that the sun provides in winter.

• convenient for residents of the southern regions.

• for the system to work, it is necessary to constantly clean off the snow;
• the greenhouse should be in the brightest place of the site;
• more suitable for glass greenhouses;
• even if you collect the daytime heat to the maximum, a sharp night cold snap can nullify all work;
• expensive equipment.

Stove heating

Many people still put potbelly stoves or homemade stoves in greenhouses, despite the fact that this is an old-fashioned way. If you are attracted to such a system, you can buy a stove of the required size and make autonomous heating.

• easy to use;
• you can make it yourself and adjust it to your greenhouse;
• you can choose a stove for the available fuel - coal or wood;
• economical way.

• fuel must be added constantly;
• the design is quite cumbersome, it is difficult to move it to another place;
• the air heats up unevenly - it's too hot nearby, it's cool in the far corner;
• will not be able to maintain a high temperature if a severe frost hits.

Air heating

Provided by large installations that drive warm air through the greenhouse. This is a complex equipment, therefore, it is installed by specialists during the installation of the greenhouse.

• evenly distributes warm air over the top;
• does not burn leaves with hot air.

• cannot be installed by yourself;
• does not warm up the soil;
• expensive equipment.

Biological heating

This is organic matter - most often horse manure, which is laid in the ground. It is necessary to remove the soil from the garden, fill it by one third with manure and fill it up again.

• manure maintains a temperature of 60-70 ° for up to 120 days;
• warms up the soil well;
• additionally fertilizes, moisturizes the beds, nourishes the roots.

• difficult to get;
• cannot be replaced with ordinary humus, as it quickly loses heat;
• more suitable for southern regions.

Conclusion: how best to heat the greenhouse

In order for a modern polycarbonate greenhouse to produce crops even in winter, it is most profitable to install electric heating.

The most popular are infrared emitters: they are easy to install, they do not require constant attention and complex maintenance. In addition, they mimic sunlight, which will benefit the plants.

When buying a greenhouse, decide in advance whether you need it in winter or not. It is much easier to heat it in the spring - the ground thaws faster than outside. With the first plus, you can already start planting.

Cons of heating Buleryan

On the Internet, I read that Buleryan is a Canadian long-burning stove with a high level of efficiency. It warms up the air well. And you can save on wood.

The average volume of greenhouses is 80m3. That is, the size is ≈8x4 meters. Such a greenhouse will warm up the stove in 10-20 minutes.

Firewood in Buleryan burns in 2 stages. In the lower compartment, they burn out and gases are formed. Then they rise to the second compartment, mix with air.

The efficiency of a Canadian stove is close to 80%, and that of an ordinary potbelly stove is 30-40%.

Another advantage of Bleryan is that its walls do not heat up much. If you put the oven close to the cellophane, it won't melt. What can not be said about other potbelly stoves.

Plus, it regulates the amount of warm air that enters the greenhouse.

During operation, it turned out that it is not so convenient for heating greenhouses.

An important drawback is that Buleryan is heavy. It is difficult for an adult healthy man to endure it alone. It is also bulky. Transferring it from one greenhouse to another is problematic. For a person with a backache, this manipulation can take a whole day. The stove is not mobile.

The main disadvantage is the price. Last spring we bought it for 25,000 rubles. It is not cheap. We thought that we would be able to save on firewood and get some of the cost back.

As time passes, I understand that it is impossible to save money. Part of the funds can be returned only for a very long period of time, about 10 years. The starting cost of such a stove eats up all the savings from it.

It also turned out that Buleryan had a small furnace. If men can chop wood for him without any problems. Then it's problematic for me to do this. Therefore, I heat a homemade stove with much greater pleasure. Any firewood and boards that can be found on the farm climb there.

Summing up everything said. If you do not have money for Buleryan, but you need a stove in a greenhouse, take a look at homemade stoves. They are not inferior to foreign counterparts.