Thinking about the construction of a sauna stove, it is necessary to choose the correct type and overall dimensions of the future structure, decide on the design of the chimney, choose a building material and a mixture for masonry. A drawing with applied geometric dimensions and detailed ordering will help prevent mistakes in the construction process.
The sauna stove has a number of differences from the traditional ones used for heating the house. They always have a niche for heating stones and a water heating circuit. A simple design is a water tank located in a specific place on the stove.
Primary requirements
The heater has the following functions:
- providing strong heating of stones, which is required for steam formation during watering;
- uniform fuel consumption;
- ensuring the optimal temperature (75-80ᵒС under the ceiling, 54-50ᵒС at floor level);
- maintaining high efficiency.
Sauna stove
In view of all this, during the construction of the furnace, one should pay attention to the following parameters:
- the structure should not have cracks;
- the distance between the ceiling and the stove should be 50 cm;
- contact of any heated structural element with wooden objects is inadmissible;
- the ash pan must be at least 15 cm from the floor;
- all walls adjacent to the stove should be finished with non-combustible material (steel, asbestos);
- the floor is covered with an iron sheet.
Note! Regardless of the design chosen, safety should be a priority. In the absence of the necessary skills, it is better to choose a gas element and entrust its installation to professionals.
Result
In the end, they did this: they had already compacted everything between the brick and the frame, now there is no smoke from there. The door is not pressed against the frame by anything now. When you close it, you have to raise it a little. After testing the stove, here's what you can say: no soot. The stones are clean and so is the camera. The steam room warmed up to +80 degrees with a humidity of 40%. Steaming is very pleasant at these temperatures. Due to the uneven heating, the oven had to crack a little. It is still worth heating, and the masonry will be established, it will be possible to hammer a hot stove into the cracks. The last two bookmarks of firewood differ in that there was no pipe at all. The firebox was a dry aspen, 55 cm long, the firebox was laid on 2/3. The door smokes only at the first fire, at the next - no longer. Cold air still sucks in a little, but not critical. But I still don't like the stones: the author has 50/50 quartzite and talcochlorite - excellent heat storage options. quartzite crumbles, apparently from temperature. So, you can make a stove for a bath from a good heating stove.
A source: https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/107207/
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Brick heater
A thick-walled structure made of fireclay bricks, which is fired with solid fuel. A distinctive feature of such stoves is that they should be melted in advance - approximately five to six hours before taking water procedures. When the desired temperature is reached, the fuel supply stops, and the procedures begin only after it has completely burned out. For this reason, the oven can be classified as a batch device.The temperature inside the structure can reach 800-850ᵒС.
The benefits include:
- long-term preservation of heat (about nine hours);
- fire safety due to the metal base;
- the possibility of heating large areas;
- ease of installation (if you have the appropriate skills).
It is also worth noting that even the next day the temperature can fluctuate between 20-23ᵒС.
Brick heater
But still, a brick heater has disadvantages, including:
- long heating time;
- overall dimensions;
- heavy weight, requiring a deepened foundation;
- the need for relevant knowledge (for masonry).
In addition, it is required to wait for the complete combustion of the fuel, otherwise there will be a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
Brick oven for a bath
Refractory brick prices
Refractory brick
Solution preparation
For the stove, a clay solution is used. For its preparation, they take high-quality clay extracted from a depth of at least 1.5 m and refined quartz sand (preferably river sand). Since dry clay is difficult to process, it is better to soak it for 1-2 days. If it is too greasy, you can add chamotte mortar to it, but not immediately, but together with the sand.
What clay mortar should look like
The mixing of the solution begins with the preparation of the clay: first, it is kneaded with a special spatula, similar to an oar, then water is added to it and stirred with a construction mixer until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. After that, sand is gradually added to the clay in a ratio of 1: 1 or 1: 2 (depending on the fat content), continuing to stir.
Construction technology
After the preparation of standard tools (trowels, level, containers for solution preparation) and materials (cement, sand, clay, fireclay and red bricks, metal fittings), laying begins. It is characteristic that the clay should also be chamotte - it is necessary for greasing the seams.
Stove ordering
Note! It is unacceptable to use silicate bricks for structures of this type.
First, a foundation is built - a hole is dug 50 cm deep and with dimensions that exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 25-30 cm. A wooden formwork is installed, a 5-centimeter cushion of rubble is poured, and a solution is poured. When the concrete dries, brick laying begins.
"Zero" row. The height of the base is displayed to the floor level. In the front row, bricks are produced on both sides - they will serve as a support for cutting. Next comes the ordering.
Row number 1. Another support is made in the rear left corner (a third brick is produced).
Row number 2. A sub-channel with a blower is being built. Doors are installed for the ash and blower chambers, pre-wrapped with asbestos cord. On the back side, along the channel, bricks are laid - one whole, the other in ¾. And between them and the right wall, you need to leave a gap of about ½ the length of the product.
Row number 3. With the help of a wire, the doors are attached - it is pulled on both sides and inserted into the seam between the bricks. Vertical laces are pulled at the corners of the structure.
The blower is closed at the same stage.
Row number 4. Fireclay bricks are used. A refractory core is formed, the grate is installed. Small gaps should be left between the brick and the grate for thermal expansion.
Fireclay masonry
The next row of refractory core is laid out similarly to the previous one. On rows No. 3 and No. 4 an opening for the firebox is formed. Holes for the secondary air supply are also created - teeth are cut along the entire length in the lower part of the side bricks.
The fireproof fifth row is laid out without mortar, a door (12x12 cm in size) is installed for the air duct. It is characteristic that it is better to cut the teeth on both sides of the kernel, otherwise the supplied air may not be enough.
A fireclay grate is laid on top of the fifth row.To do this, bricks are laid along the structure (necessarily flat) with a step of about ½ the width of the product. The gaps are filled with sawn pieces of the appropriate size.
Row number 5. The main laying continues. A partition is formed between the channels. It is important that the height of the lifting channel is equal to the section of one brick, and that of the lowering channel is 1.5. The gap between the nucleus and the wall is small (about 0.8 cm). Basalt cardboard of 5 mm thickness is placed in the gap.
Note! In the process of laying, it is recommended to apply a sheet of cardboard to the wall so that the solution squeezed out during work does not narrow the gap.
The furnace hole is surrounded by basalt cardboard.
Row number 6. The doors are fixed with M6 screws.
Row number 7. Between it and the previous row, the first output of the register is cut. A couple of basalt sheets are applied to the back wall - they will fit perfectly into 8 mm slots.
Row number 8. The upper part of the door is installed (for the firebox).
Row number 9. This door is closed.
Row number 10-12. Basalt sheets are attached to the side walls, while the space for the secondary duct is blocked.
Fireclay masonry
Next, you need to go back to the refractory core. The lattice described above was next to No. 6, and on the seventh and eighth the walls are laid.
Row number 13. The second output of the register is displayed (from the top).
Row number 14-16. Similar to the previous one.
Sauna heater
Fireclay masonry
At the same time, in row No. 9, the doors of the stove and the exhaust of flue gases into the lowering channel are being constructed (a support post of ½ brick is installed in the center of the exhaust).
Row number 10. It is laid flat, while the opening is partially closed. The stove is overlapped, parallel to the door opening (side), as shown in the image. The core is finished.
Row number 17. Openings are formed in the masonry (opposite to those in the core).
Fireclay core
Fireclay core
Row number 18. Identical to the previous one.
Row number 19. On the left, a pair of heater windows are overlapped; on the right, a door is attached.
Row number 20. The valve is laid on the basalt, the clearances are observed in case of thermal expansion. The door of the heater is placed on the right.
Row number 21. Two output channels are formed, which will be combined into one. On the right, the opening is covered with a "three-four" (3/4 brick), which will slightly overhang. A gap of 3-4 cm must be left between the bricks and the core, all the cracks are filled with mineral wool.
Row number 22. The opening over the core is completely closed, the channels are slightly shifted towards the center.
Row number 23. The narrowing of the flue gas duct continues.
Row number 24.25. Similar to the previous one.
Row number 26. The chimney is already placed in the "five", and its internal size is equal to a whole brick. A gate valve is installed.
Row number 27.28. Similar to the previous one, one more valve is installed on top.
Stove construction
In the next rows of masonry, a classic "fluff" is formed.
Fluff
Note! Cast iron bricks can be placed on the grate instead of stones. They weigh about 5 kg each, so eight should be sufficient.
Sauna stove (heater)
All that remains is to connect the water supply to the register and install a water tank of about 80 liters. There is a lot of controversy regarding the advisability of using basalt cardboard. Experts assure that it is necessary in the stove, since it reduces the intensity of heating the brick and thereby prevents the formation of cracks. In other words, it acts as a damper.
Video - DIY sauna heater
Prices for refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces
Refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces
Choice of sizes
To select a drawing, it is necessary to determine overall dimensions of a brick bath stove. They are selected based on the volume of the heated steam room and according to personal preferences.But in the most common options, for the convenience of masonry, the base area is chosen either 3.5 by 4 bricks, or 4 by 5 bricks. The height is adjusted for ease of use and in accordance with the distance to the floors. As a rule, stoves are made 168 or 210 cm. In these dimensions, only the heating unit itself is taken into account, without the design of the chimney.
Iron stove
Manufactured from sheet steel or cast iron. It differs from brick in its insignificant wall thickness and continuous burning. Most models are equipped with automatic thermostats, which allows more economical use of fuel or electricity. The temperature inside the oven can reach 450-500ᵒС.
Metal stove
Note! The stones are heated from the walls of the structure and the chimney, for which the stove must be positioned appropriately. This is not always possible, because the layout, as well as the area of the room, can be different.
During operation, steam disperses immediately throughout the room, so it is undesirable to pour large portions of water (no more than 700 g) on the stones, but if the area is large, then the volume can be increased.
In Finnish saunas, where dry steam is used, electric heaters are installed, heating the stones at the expense of heating elements.
Due to the complexity of the design, metal heaters (especially electric ones) are not recommended for independent production.
Solutions to the problem
It is necessary to do so as to force the gases to move along the box, and then return them to the existing channel. If possible, you can try to make a separate channel for the heater. The firebox will go up through the grate along the box on both sides. There is a new channel above the box, and a pipe on top. There will be a valve in the new channel, it needs to be closed, and the gases along the old path will be used to warm the stove and water with them, then the stones will be opened. In the firebox, it is worth narrowing the haylo to increase the resistance of the old chimney. The new one should be more efficient.
There is also an option to reduce the depth of the furnace by building a blank wall of refractory bricks on the edge. There will be a hole in the stone chamber behind the wall. As a result, it turns out a convenient route - the front wall of the box - the top box - the back wall of this box - behind the new wall in the firebox - the chimney.
To begin with, you can try to do the following: you need to put the wall in the firebox as indicated above. Milking the sample is still all the same, what kind of brick will be. It is worth continuing this wall on the grate already flat to the very top of the bricks so that at least one row of bricks remains between the wall and the ceiling. The main thing is that it does not fall into the new channel when the stones are laid. Then it remains only to lay the stones and light the stove. If, after firing the stove, the soot on the upper stones burns out and pure steam flows when giving in, then you need to see if it is worth making a box or not. If everything is done as it should, then to equip the partition on the grates, you can try to attach an 18 mm sheet. Not reaching one yard to the arch is not necessary - just make it higher than the stones. the main thing is the distance from the old to the new wall. The area of the new chimney must be at least 150 square centimeters. and also not more than the area of the main chimney. More is possible - only it will be meaningless. You do not need to leave a hole in the stones: if the stones are larger than an orange, then you can use it. It is worth laying loosely, since after heating they will sit down a little more, you can add a little more on top. Stacking stones above the middle of the door is not worth it. So there will be less risk of getting a jet of steam in your face when you open the door. If everything works out as it should, then the stove will turn out to be very hot - approximately, like in black with the absence of a direct move. This means that a lot of soot will fall on the stones at the start of the kindling. As it warms up, the soot should burn out well.You can steam in such conditions only when the stove is completely finished heating. The chamber must be free of charcoal. If the door with stones is single, then after stopping the furnace, but before steaming, the steam room should be ventilated well.
In an amicable way, it is worth extending the fireclay firebox to the heater. This is possible because the volume is very large: 150 kg of stones will occupy only half of the heater chamber. It is worth installing a damper or a second door in front of the door to the stones in the steam room. If you make the stove run straight, it can make it easier to start a cold stove, add a few more degrees to the stones, but also increase the heating time. It turns out that first through the stones, after drying the pipe, it is worth warming the water, and after warming up the stove, warm the stones. Not after heating the water, namely the stove. Otherwise, when the stones are heated, a large uneven heating of the stove can be obtained, and it will begin to crack with a ladder diagonally from the pipe to the grates of stones.
You can also install a top-opening chimney damper on the inside of the stone chamber. that is, they were carrying to look from the camera, then first comes the damper, and then the door. When vaping, you just need to take it out. But all alterations can turn negatively, more and more new problems will appear.
Types
Sauna stoves can be in different groups depending on different criteria. The main ones are the material used for the fuel.
By material
Depending on the material from which the furnace is made, there are two types of equipment:
- Brick. Classic stoves for a Russian bath. They look attractive, keep warm for a long time. Since the bricks are heavy, a separate foundation must be erected for the oven.
- Metallic. Modern designs that take up a small amount of space are suitable for heating living quarters, heating bath buildings. They heat up quickly, but after the fuel burns out they cool down quickly.
A separate type of furnace equipment is combined models. The combustion chamber is assembled from metal, metal surfaces are lined with brick or natural stone.
By type of fuel
For the bath, you can choose a wood-burning stove or an electric heater. Design features
- Woodburning stove. Solid fuel is used for kindling. Thanks to the burning of wood inside the bath, a special atmosphere is created that allows you to better relax and unwind. Firewood must be prepared in advance, choosing a suitable storage location. The stove with a chimney must be regularly cleaned of ash, soot, and the combustion process must be controlled.
- Electric heater. They work from the mains. They are less whimsical to care for, they heat up evenly. There is no need to create a separate storage space for fuel. Temperature control can be precisely controlled.
The choice of a stove depends on financial capabilities, personal wishes.
